In a past life, while working for the government, I developed a theory about brain capacity. After dozens of meetings that all seemed to involve learning how to fill out new, multi-part forms, I noticed a disturbing trend. My ability to conjugate French verbs was diminishing in direct correlation with the acquisition of knowledge about form 7029-A, part 1.

I pondered this (I had plenty of time while appearing to pay attention during the numerous weekly meetings that clogged my calendar) and concluded that brain disc space was more limited than scientists supposed. Not only that, but new information had the ability to search out vulnerable areas, aggressively pushing into spaces already filled with data.

Come to think of it, bureaucratic data behaved a lot like Eddie Haskell, who is seeking to occupy the exact same space as my existing pets. (Oh, did I not inform you that I plan to mention him in every column until someone takes him off my hands? Consider yourself warned.)

Fortunately, I was able to reverse the process, by doodling irregular verb conjugations while pretending to learn how to properly fill out a Request for Authorization to Travel in a Non-Commercial Vehicle While on Government Business form.

But recently I’ve rethought the theory completely. I now have reason to believe it is only dull, bureaucratic details that have this pernicious effect. From my current observations, when the information is fresh and interesting, I now believe the brain can safely hold a great deal more than I had supposed. In fact, it can be crammed to the brim — and the only old data overwritten will be outdated ideas and assumptions.

Last week I attended one of the best-kept secrets in the valley, the third annual Taste3 conference sponsored by Mondavi. It is the single most brain-taxing, thought-provoking, idea-packed conference imaginable, bringing together dozens of original thinkers, experts, and extraordinary individuals who present back-to-back in quick succession.

This year’s lineup included presentations on worms, honeybees, foie gras, urban farming (in high-rises and backyards), the invention of the modern flour mill, the promise of genetic meddling, the dangers of genetic meddling, breadmaking, a Sikh festival, Chinese food in America, sustainable winery design, endangered trees in New Zealand, the latest trends in vending machines, photographic depictions of consumption, a project to import dates from Iraq and any number of other equally diverse topics — all offered in 18-minute increments.

After two days and more than 30 speakers, I had mental whiplash.

The beauty of this gathering — and its biggest problem, since it makes it so hard to explain if you don’t attend it — is that the presentations have nothing to do with one another. And everything to do with one another. They’re each a snapshot from a different angle, acute or oblique, close-up or landscape, color or black and white. Together, they form a collage of the world today (or at least the parts of the world that touch on food, wine, agriculture, climate, commerce and science, which is a big chunk of everything).

Each of the presenters is doing amazing work in a specialized area. But at the conference, the real work happened inside the brains of the 250 or so folks being bombarded with information. And believe me, it was work. I felt like one of those cartoon characters, with a pulsating gauge over my head saying, “Danger! Danger! Overload!” My head was so overstuffed I thought it would explode.

But it didn’t. Instead, it expanded.

Everything I learned is still buzzing around inside, and I’m trying to put it all together. From my experience with last year’s conference, I know I’ll be processing the data for months to come. I’m looking forward to sharing my “aha” moments and unexpected connections with you.

Who knows, when I do, I might even throw in some French. I checked, and beneath the data on worm farming, it’s all still there. Though for some reason I can’t remember a thing about how to fill out a Federal budget requisition and reconciliation form.

Salmon with Blueberry-Lemon Sauce

My brain was exhausted after the conference and I decided it needed extra nourishment, so I Googled “brain food.” I stumbled across a list of foods that are touted to have special powers in helping mental functioning: blueberries and salmon were high on the list. They didn’t seem to go together, but my brain really, really needed help, so I Googled further and found a delicious and beautiful (and not at all sweet) blueberry sauce (which I of course reworked completely). It actually complements the fish rather nicely, and I think it kicked my brain into gear — try it and let me know what you think.

1 cup blueberries

4 Tbsp. lemon juice

Zest of 1 lemon

Zest of 1 lime

2 tsp. grated fresh ginger

2 Tbsp. orange juice

2 Tbsp. vodka or white wine (whichever is on hand)

1 1/2 pounds salmon fillets

3 Tbsp. butter

1 large shallot, minced

Salt and pepper

Mix together the blueberries with the lemon juice, lemon zest, lime zest, ginger, orange juice and vodka. Set aside.

Cut the fish into individual servings, and generously salt and pepper both sides of the fillets. In a sauté pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the shallots and cook a minute or two to soften. Add the salmon and cook, turning once, until just done. Remove to a plate and keep warm.

Add the blueberry mixture to the pan and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring, until the blueberries soften and pop and the mixture thickens up a bit.

To serve, pool some sauce on the plate and place a fish fillet on top. Rice is a nice accompaniment.

Serves 4

Betty Teller is a serious foodie who tries not to take food too seriously. If you’d like to adopt a cat or tell her how this recipe turned out, she can be reached at amuse-bouche@sbcglobal.net.