History, agriculture and the Berbers, Morocco’s earliest indigenous inhabitants, have all joined to produce one of the world’s greatest cuisines.

Historically, North Africa was a stopping point on the spice trade route between Europe and the Far East. As a result, North African cooks adopted many spices into their cuisine. The freshness and variety of spices are crucial in North African cooking. People can buy freshly ground spices and fresh herbs in the souks, marketplaces lined with open-fronted stalls, typically found in the old quarters of cities. Sellers present great mounds of spices, creating a rainbow of colors and delicious array of smells. The markets also abound with fresh fruits and vegetables, herbs, fish, fresh and dried fava beans and lentils, grains, and jars of olive oil. The souk is a feast for the eyes and nose

The combination of French and Arabic cooking has given Morocco a delicious cuisine. Spices are the heart of almost every dish. Moroccan cooks use cinnamon, cumin, coriander, paprika, turmeric, saffron, white pepper, red chili, cloves and sesame to create tasty stews, meat dishes and sweets.

The traditional Moroccan spice mix is ras el hanout. The name, loosely translated, means “head of the shop” and is meant to represent the very best the spice merchant has to offer. What makes this blend so special is the number of ingredients, sometimes more than 20, and the subtle manner in which all these individual spices merge to form a balanced, full-bodied blend with no sharp edges. Ras el hanout is somewhat curry-like with a spicy, yet floral fragrance and robust, yet subtle flavor. When sprinkled onto chicken and fish before pan-frying, grilling or baking, it gives a golden color and a mild, aromatic spiciness that is very agreeable. Ras el hanout goes well with lamb, game, tagines and couscous dishes.

The most traditional dish is the tagine, named for the earthenware pot with a cone-shaped cover that is the “casserole” of Morocco. A tagine may be made with lamb, chicken or other meat, and is usually a combination of sweet and sour flavors. A tagine often includes prunes, almonds, onions and cinnamon. It is cooked slowly to allow all the flavors to combine. Most meat dishes use lamb or red meat. Pigeons are often included in dishes, particularly the pastille (b’stila in Arabic), a delicious flaky pastry filled with meat, nuts and spices and cooked with cinnamon sugar before it is baked.

A meal often includes a plate of couscous, a starch that provides a base for many other dishes. Couscous (a Berber word), is a grain dish made of semolina. The grain is finely ground before it is cooked. Couscous is often served with chicken, lamb and with a variety of vegetables. The grain has the same role in Moroccan cooking that rice has in Chinese food.

Meals are traditionally served on large trays resting on low, round, wooden stools. The trays are made of copper, brass, or silver decorated with ornate patterns. People sit on cushions surrounding the tray. Although knives and forks are increasingly being used, many people eat with their fingers in the traditional manner. To do so properly is a delicate, refined art.

A variety of salads, mainly cooked, that run the gamut from carrot, eggplant, green and red sweet peppers to fennel, artichokes and countless other vegetables can adorn the table. Vegetables of all kinds are an important characteristic of the Moroccan diet. Meat is money and is not always available, so vegetables fill the gap, replacing the meat somewhat without producing blandness since there is always a battery of spices and olive oil to provide richness.

Mint tea is served at the end of the meal, usually from a silver teapot and poured into small glasses. The art of pouring the tea is part of the pleasure of drinking it. The tea is always poured from a great distance above the glass and always finds its way to the target. Mint tea is sweetened in the pot before it is served. The fresh mint along with Moroccan green tea balances the sugar and makes it a perfect combination.

The variety of the food is considerable and a good meal is part of the spice of life. But it is the spices that provide the life of the food.

Ronit’s parents brought their recipes with them when they immigrated in 1965 from Casablanca to Israel, where they raised their family in a traditional Moroccan household. Here are two favorites.

Chicken Ras el Hanout with Lentils

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1 large onion (or 2 small), thinly sliced and finely chopped

6 chicken thighs

4 garlic cloves

1/2 cup of black lentils

1/4 tsp. saffron

1/2 tsp. ginger

1/2 tsp. black pepper ground

1/4 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. turmeric

1 Tbsp. fresh parsley, finely chopped

2 Tbsp. fresh cilantro, finely chopped

1/2 tsp. ras el hanout

1/4 tsp. fenugreek seed powder

1/3 cup of water or chicken broth

Bring to boil 3 cups of water in a small pot and add lentils. Cook lentils for 7 minutes and turn off the heat. Let it remain in the hot water until chicken is almost cooked.

Rinse the chicken inside and out. Remove any excess fat and leftover pinfeathers and pat the outside dry. Season both sides of the chicken with salt, black pepper, and ras el hanout.

In a tagine or large casserole over medium high heat add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add onion and garlic and sauté until brown about 8 minutes. Add spices: saffron, ginger, black pepper, salt, turmeric, ras el hanout, and fenugreek. Sauté for 3 more minutes.

Add seasoned chicken to pot and sprinkle over the chopped fresh parsley and cilantro. Cover and lower the heat. Simmer on low for 30 minutes. Drain lentils from the water. Turn chicken thighs over, add lentils, and 1/3 cup of water; stir, taste juices, and adjust seasoning to taste. Cook for 20 more minutes until lentils are soft and mostly absorbed.

Serve with pita bread or over rice.

Serves 4.

Moroccan Roasted Eggplant Salad

2 small eggplants, thickly sliced

3 small Roma fresh tomatoes

2 Tbsp. fresh chopped parsley

2 cloves garlic, pressed

4 Tbsp. olive oil

Salt and black pepper to taste

2 tsp. balsamic vinegar

1/2 tsp. cumin, ground

1/2 tsp. paprika

2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

Preheat oven to 400 F. Rub the eggplants with 3 tablespoons olive oil, black pepper, paprika, and place on a baking sheet. Bake until the eggplants are softened, turning once, about 25 to 30 minutes.

When eggplants brown on both sides take out of oven and set aside to cool. In a salad bowl combine the dressing ingredients: garlic, 1 tablespoon olive oil, salt, pepper, cumin, lemon juice, and balsamic vinegar. Add chopped parsley and sliced eggplants; mix well. Taste and adjust seasonings

Serves 6 as a side dish.

Shuli and Ronit Madmone are the owners of Whole Spice, located in the Oxbow Public Market in Napa. Their Web site is www.wholespice.com